A scientific guide to practical cutting by Glencross William
Author:Glencross, William. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: New York, W. Glencross
Published: 1873-03-25T05:00:00+00:00
[Plate X.
dci)tli of shoulder, and therefore has uoth-iiig added. But we mostly keep the point of shoulder at construction line, at 42, and the front point touching lop line as at 7 ; then appl}'' blade measure with i of inch added for overcoat, and if there is any filling up of shoulder, sufficient for that purpose, and form shoulder to correspond with your measure. Then mark I outside at natural waist, and li outside from 25i, and 3i at bottom ; and form side seam from 9? by % to oh at bottom, and sye from 42 by 3, 4.1, 3, 91 ; then draw line from ll to 122, and form neck-gorge as model ; then take out V of 1 of inch, as from 121 to 13 : then mark in front of sj'e from 3 to 13i, 3 breast measure ; sweep from-13i to 121 at top ; take out V as to 13 ; mark width of lapel from lo^ to 17, or 3^ inches and 3 at top, from 13 to 16 ; draw line from 171 to 171 at bottom ; add 1 inch outside, as to 18 ; and draw front line from 171 to 18, by 172 and 17t ; then draw bottom line on the square, front and rear ; mark down from line 1 of inch, and form
bottom, from 1 to oA ; take out fish, as from 22 to 5 as model, and finish forepart.
Figure 6 is the diagram of single breasted over sack, and is drafted to the same measure, with the following exceptions. It is but 2 inches shorter ; the diameter in this forepart is marked at 42, and the back at 9, 8, 82, should be reduced 1 of inch re-spectivelj' ; the 161 at bottom is in the wrong place, as it applies to the front hair line ; the front of breast is 2 breast measure from front of sye ; and the lapel is 21 inches in width. When a straight sack is required, the back line and side lines are cnt straight, and no fish taken out under arm.
The sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the same way as that represented ou Figure 4, plate VII. The distance in all cases from 0 to 31 should be from where back seam of sleeve joins on back i)itch, which, in this case, would be 1 inch above 8, and would amount to 4, and therefore 1 of inch loo short.
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